Shame on wheels

For something that is considered a lifeline and a unifying force, Indian Railways is a shame. From the lack of well-lit stations to the state of the railcars, it is a journey back in time. In fact, it is hard to imagine that anything worthwhile has been done to improve the railways ever since the British left.

Start with the stations. Most of them do not have lights outside. Unless you come very close you don't even know if it is a railway station. Even after you have come close to be able to read the board, assuming one is present, you may be disappointed since the board may be only in the local language. Does the railways expect people to travel only within their own states, or does it expect everyone to learn all of India's languages. The same holds true for most of the notices inside.

The platforms themselves are downright dirty, with people allowed to put down their mats and sleep anywhere. There are toilets, but they will scare you to death. Some stations have pay to use toilets. That sounds hopeful at first. But be prepared to be mighty disappointed. They suck and stink. Complaining, like I did, doesn't do much.

Have you seen shit & garbage on the tracks ? Sure. But have you seen a dead cow on the tracks within a station, and a dog picking pieces of it ? I have. Imagine dinner and sleep after that, especially once you realize that your train is going to do some more damage to the carcass!

The railcars seem like they have not been cleaned since the British left, and that is no exaggeration. They don't even have waste-bins. Result ? Every inch of railtrack in the nation is surrounded by garbage thrown out the windows. Not a single patch of rural scenery can be seen without seeing plates, cups etc right under your nose.

Finally, be prepared to deal with rude TTs & police. I have actually been duped by a TT into paying a fine. I refused to pay the fine without a receipt, and hence ended up paying double. Only later did I learn that I wasn't doing anything wrong, as I had assumed (and confirmed) in the first place.